Lake Titicaca – Fascinating landscape
Lake Titicaca is located in the southeast of the Andes, in the Altiplano, at an altitude of more than 3800 meters, just between Peru and Bolivia, which makes it the highest navigable waters in the world. In a Peruvian word game, even the name is shared: “Titi” belongs to Peruvians, while “poop” is assigned to Bolivia. A visit to Lake Titicaca is also an ideal springboard for a vacation in Peru from neighboring Bolivia.
The Uros and their floating islands
Lake Titicaca is famous for its floating islands previously inhabited by the Urus (or Uros). Since 1958, the Urus, who used to be called Kot-Suns, are considered extinct. It is their descendants who defend the Uru culture. Today, they live mainly in Puno, the capital of the province, to which Lake Titicaca belongs.
The legend says that the Uru were not willing to pay the required Inca tribute or to work in their silver mines. Then they invented the brilliant plan
On a tour of some of the floating islands, you can convince yourself of the creative and highly robust construction of the subsoil itself. There is already the possibility of admiring the material itself, since the boats with which it is moving are also made of reeds that grow on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Of course, the islands can also be entered! Note: in some of the artificial islands, the soil can be very soft and flexible.
Travel tip Lake Titicaca / Isla del Sol:
For travelers to Peru, the island of the sun also offers something special because they have to leave the country and enter Bolivia to reach them. From Puno there are regular buses to Copacabana. From Copacabana several boats go to the Islands of the Sun.
In any case, plan a day for Isla del Sol if you want to develop a real feeling for this magical place. If you stay overnight, depending on the lodge, you should prepare for a longer walk since arrival. Since this can be quite steep, you can try in advance to take aids with pack animals.
Many travel companies offer to spend the night in Copacabana, but one tip is to spend the night directly on the island of the sun. Especially recommended as accommodation: The traditional style eco-lodge “La Estancia” with beautiful lake view, for ecological and sustainable operation, friendly to the environment, small businesses have come together, including local food supply, plant of water treatment and solar system.
Do not be surprised by your walks on the island if you have to stop in between and pay a small toll: everything is well done. This serves for self-organized maintenance of very well developed roads and ruins.
Amantani
Located about 40 km from Puno, the island of Amantani is the ideal place for those looking for a truly peaceful place, perhaps even to recover from the many adventures of a tour of Peru. Amantani is home to some 4,000 people in six rural communities, from handicrafts, agriculture, stone carvings and textiles. They still speak the Quechua Inca language together.
The excursion destinations that are worthwhile are the archaeological cities and the surveys called “Pacha Tata” and “Pacha Mama”, which originated in the Tihuanaco culture. The intermediate trail leads hikers through valleys and terraced fields before stopping in front of imposing Inca ruins and temples. The view of Lake Titicaca is spectacular from up here.
Travel Tip Lake Titicaca / Amantani:
The wonderful feature of the island: you can stay there, but not in hotels, but with families living in private. Just be sure to give your hosts the money directly instead of a local tour operator booked on the coast. This will ensure that the payment is reasonably high.
Suasi
Suasi has a unique feature: it is the only privately owned island on Lake Titicaca. Its owner, Martha Giraldo, installed an eco-lodge here a few years ago. There is no telephone, no television, no cars. The energy needed for electricity is generated entirely through solar systems. Surrounded by the bay, the exuberant flora is full of daisies, geraniums and, above all, the Peruvian national flower Kantuta.
These contrast sharply with the glistening and golden remains of the island, covered with Ichu grass, which the herds of alpacas care for with love. Even the rare vicuñas live here, with their wool immensely valuable.
Tip: In the charm of the summit you can meditate not only at sunrise and sunset, you can also book a guide with astronomical knowledge. This explains the stellar interpretation of the Inca at night. By motorboat you can reach Suasi from Puno in approximately three and a half hours.
Travel Tip Lake Titicaca
Plaza de Armas in Puno
Puno was founded in 1668 by the viceroy Pedro Fernández Castro Andrade. The city is also known as “Silver City”, due to its great abundance of this precious metal: the silver mines of Puno are among the richest in Peru. In honor of the Spanish King Carlos II, Puno was renamed San Carlos de Puno.
Arrival and round trip
Since Puno does not have its own airport, the nearest airport, 45 km from Puno, is the regional ‘Manco Capac Airport’ in Juliaca. From there, there are daily flights to Lima, Arequipa and Cusco. From Puno there are several ways to get to Lake Titicaca by bus. A special adventure is the journey of approximately ten hours on the train known as ‘Andean Explorer’, which runs between Puno and Cusco, and offers impressive scenic perspectives.
In the lake itself, it travels with boats leaving the bay of Puno. Along the lake, you will arrive by bus to Bolivia, where you can get off at Copacabana. The trip takes approximately four hours. At the border it must be abandoned for passport control: keep the IDs so ready!
At the time of the name change, the city was supplemented with many Protestant church buildings that can still be visited today. Other points of interest include the Balcón del Conde de Lemus, built in 1668 to house the viceroy and now the seat of the National Institute of Culture. It is also worth visiting: the Cathedral of Puno, the “House of the Corregidor”, the viewpoints “Kuntur Huasi” and “Puma Uta”, the towers of the Kolla culture and the adjacent National Park “Titicaca National Reserve”.
Puno proudly calls itself the folklore capital of Peru. Although the ‘Festival de la Virgen de la Candelaria’, which takes place in February, is one of the highlights of the festival calendar in Puno, there are also many smaller shows and events. Here, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, travelers will discover the traditional costumes, the variety of Peruvian music and the cheerful hospitality of the region. However, right at the time of the ‘Festival de la Virgen de la Candelaria’, the hotels are booked quickly and the prices in the restaurants and for the tours increase a bit.
With the Andean Explorer up to Lake Titicaca
After our last trip that took us to Machu Pichu, we arrived tired and dusty again in Cuzco. Then we had planned a trip to Lake Titicaca, after all, the highest lake that can be reached by boat.
We did not want to rent a car or fly, so we decided to take a ride in the Andean Explorer, which I had heard some praises in advance. And the people had not promised too much. The train is luxuriously decorated, with surprisingly comfortable seats and an interior decorated with love. The welcome was black tea and a welcome cocktail. So, you can really enjoy the trip for almost 10 hours, right?
But the highlight of the train trip is, without a doubt, the panoramic car at the end of the train. Here we have probably been able to make hundreds of snapshots of the impressive nature that surrounds us.
Especially in the first 200 km, which lead even more to the Andes, they were extremely impressive and spent time in flight. As soon as you get to the top of the plateau, the landscape becomes a little more contemplative, but you can see the Peruvians along the tracks more and more, who also make beautiful motifs with their colorful costumes and hats.
When we finally arrived in Puno, it was already dark and we headed directly to our hotel, which was located on Lake Titicaca. We had gone a little deeper into the bag and had booked a nice suite, the living room not only had a magnificent view of the water, but it even had its own small oxygen bar. However, in the last few days we had got used to the air a bit, so we did not have to resort to them. A small snack, a hot shower and going to bed, because the next day we planned some trips around and on Lake Titicaca.
Festivals and folklore everywhere!
The next morning, when we wanted to get to the pier, we were surprised by a festival in the streets of Puno. Suddenly, we were surrounded by an incredibly loud band, dancers dressed in colors (who also took us by the hand and made us turn around the square). What a start!
In Lima Street, where dozens of travel agencies are located, we spontaneously booked a half-day boat trip on Lake Titicaca. My friend Marie had advised me to do this tour before going to the “typical” tourist magnets such as the Uru Islands or the “Isla del Sol”. And he was right, because this half day on Lake Titicaca was magical.
First, it goes along the shore, where the water is not too deep and more brown. But you can see many birds on the shore and I was glad to have packed my good lens in the backpack.
The further we went towards Lake Titicaca, the blue became the water, and you could actually see some places, because it was clear as water!
After arriving in Puno in the afternoon, we used the time before dinner to take a walk through the weekend market, which is relatively “not very touristy”. Hot: lots of fresh fruits, some memories. Of course, my better half could not afford to buy a wonderfully tender (and brightly colorful) blanket. Well, he’s still lying on the couch at home today and he reminds us of this trip to Lake Titicaca.
One night on Lake Titicaca
The next day, we had booked a guided tour, which should take us both to Isla del Sol and to the Uru Islands. But, curiously, for us the highlight was the visit to the Isla de la Luna, because before we were allowed to enter, we first had to endure a ritual.
Our guide took a group of red chants, which have a deep meaning for the locals, and dipped them in the water before it passed through their heads. After that, we had to take something like an oath in the Quechua language. Our guide states that the oath means “Do not lie, do not steal and do not be lazy,” but maybe I have mortgaged my soul with that, who knows.
On the island itself, we visit the Temple of the Fools, to which the descendants of the Incas still come today to meditate and learn new skills. It was a very quiet place with a really nice view of Lake Titicaca and the Andes.
We spent our last night at Lake Titicaca with a cold beer over an extremely delicious meal in a small restaurant on a side street on Lima Street. The next morning should continue early, next destination: La Paz!
Hotels on the Titicaca
If you are looking for a place to stay, you can choose between the Peruvian side and the Bolivian side of the lake. Either in one of the cities like Copacabana or Puno. The islands also offer places to spend a wonderful night in this beautiful lake. To make up for the lack of luxury, hospitality and service awaits you that you will never forget.
A special accommodation is the Uros Lake Titicaca Lodge. You will spend the night on a floating island.