In the middle of the Andes, surrounded by majestic peaks and deep valleys, lush meadows and deep green forests lies the province of the Amazon in northern Peru. And right there, embedded in the rock formations, is Chachapoyas, the capital of the region.
Built by the Spanish colonial rulers, Chachapoyas is today a peaceful little mountain town, which provides access to many fascinating destinations. From historic ruins, ancient fortresses and remnants of a long-forgotten culture to imposing waterfalls and deeply rambling caves, there are a variety of attractions – and yet the region is still relatively unknown today.
This is mainly due to the difficult journey: 22 hours by bus you have to take, but you will be rewarded rich. Forgotten are the overcrowded ruins of Machu Pichu, where on each shot photo has a tourist with a camera in the picture. Here it is still possible to walk in the footsteps of the past and to meet for hours no human soul.
From the Kuelap fortress, built by the people of Chachapoyas, to the Gocta waterfall, which is said to be the third largest in the world, around Chachapoyas, countless sights await discovery. And even if the streets are often bumpy, every single trip is worthwhile.
Incidentally, the best way to book excursions right on the spot: in the middle of Chachapoyas, in the Plaza de Armas, you will find not only numerous delightful restaurants and cafes, but also agencies that can organize every trip from A to Z.
Starting point for expeditions in the Amazon
Chachapoyas was founded on September 5, 1538 by the Spanish conquistador Alonso de Alvarado, but not where it is today. On the contrary, the settlement was first established near what is now La Jalca, and then moved to Levanto, until, finally, eight years later, it remained in its current location. But why did the Spaniards have to move so often with their “base” to northeastern Peru? The reason for this was the rebels in the area, which made life difficult for them. Their settlements were difficult to defend due to the landscape and were barely known on the land that the indigenous peoples of Peru had inhabited for millennia. And nature also thwarted their plans, eclipsing the first settlements with storms and droughts.
But finally, they found a final home, under the imposing name of “San Juan de la Frontera de los Chachapoyas”.
The Amazon was unknown territory and of great importance to the Spaniards. One could only guess what treasures were hidden here, and that is why Chachapoyas was built: the colonial rulers needed a protected base from which to depart in their expeditions to the surrounding area.
But sooner or later the Spaniards had to overcome: the environment was too inhospitable, too difficult to take advantage of and send precious goods to Europe. Even a trade with the neighboring cities of Moyobamba or Huallaga did not really start and the inhabitants of Chachapoya fled en masse to escape the Spanish government. The town, with all its architectural features, such as the tile roofs or the typical black balconies, lost importance, and in population.
All this was about to change, however, when in 1843 Judge Juan Crisóstomo Nieto, coincidentally stumbled upon the fortress of Kuelap, which for more than 300 years was forgotten by the world, exposed to the forces of nature. But, as fate would do, his discovery was published only fifty years later and hit like a bomb under the protection of the then explorer. Soon it attracted renowned researchers such as archaeologists Henry and Paule Reichlen in the region, who made one discovery after another here.
At that time, an expedition from the nearest city of Cajamarca to Chochopayas meant a trip of several weeks on the backs of mules and unstable rafting trips along the Marañón River.
Therefore, at the beginning of the 20th century, life in Chachapoyas flourished again, and even if tourism still plays a fairly subordinate role, more and more daring and nature lovers come to follow the paths of Nieto, Reichlen and Co to walk and absorb the magic of this region.
Where is Chachapoyas and what does nature have to offer?
Until a few years ago, Chachapoyas was considered very isolated. Almost nobody took the extremely difficult route because it led on narrow roads through extreme heights and in adverse weather conditions, floods and spilled roads made progress impossible. Although this may happen today, but the roads are much better arranged and that is why they now drive some roads in the northern cities on the Peruvian coast.
In the remote north of Peru, at an altitude of 2,335 meters above sea level, is Chachapoyas with its almost 30,000 inhabitants. The city is, of course, in addition to its cultural and historical importance, especially known for its beautiful orchids, aromatic coffee and sugar cane.
And you will also notice that when wandering around the area: here the lush mountain forests alternate with small fields and orchid gardens, and if the weather is good, everything is covered by a thick layer of fog.
But Chachapoyas attracts visitors not only because of its many historical sites, but also nature lovers come here at its expense. Peru has one of the largest diversity of birds in the world. More than 1,800 different species, many of them exclusively in Peru, populate the country from the coasts to the Andes. And around Chachapoyas you can see Andean woodpeckers, Andean swallows and several ibis. One reason why Chochopayas is also considered a privileged information among ornithologists and that the community or ecotourism has just experienced a real boom in the area.
However, those who stop their eyes (and the lens of the camera) in their nature walks can discover many more creatures in the province: from colorful butterflies to small (but very shy) monkeys to the “best-known faces of Peru” “, llamas and alpacas populate a surprising number of animals in the region. A dream for all amateur photographers!
Chachapoyas in itself is not, as many think, in the rainforest itself. On the contrary, it is located on the mountain and the jungle is behind it in the flattening area. Therefore, a change between dry and wet season should be noted: from March to October, it is relatively dry, while it can go from November to spring to heavy rains. And even if nature provides the most impressive knowledge, with powerful and swollen rivers and lush plants that sprout from the ground everywhere, a visit to the rainy season can carry risks. Flooded roads or even landslides can become real challenges without the right equipment.
Peruvians love to celebrate and, of course, it’s the same in Chachapoyas. Even if none of the “big” festivals (which often have a religious origin) is due, it is not uncommon to see colorful processions or musical performances. And when you dance on the street, sometimes it can happen that they also ask you as a tourist and suddenly you move through the streets.
On June 6 of each year, the “Pampas de Higos Urco” festival is celebrated. The battlefield where the last battle was fought before General San Martin declared independence can still be seen today. Today, many parades, lots of music, traditional dance performances and good food are reminiscent of the successful battle for independence. Festivities usually start on June 1 and last a full week.
The Fiestas Virgen Asunta is a religious celebration in honor of the patron Virgo Asunta. And here too, the inhabitants of Chachapoyas celebrate long and happy: from August 1 to August 15 (Assumption of the Assumption), the festivities continue, culminating on August 14. At the same time, there is the sugarcane must festival, the Guarapo Festival.
During the festivities, a statue of the Virgin is carried from church to church, where a lovingly decorated altar is ready for the Assunta Virgin. The procession is accompanied by music at high volume and confetti throwing children, who then present candy.
Last but not least, there is Hatun Luya. The festival usually takes place around September 13 and is a traditional festival with numerous folk parades and culinary delights in the streets.
The Kuelap Fortress – unresolved mystery high in the mountains
For more than two hundred years, Kuelap Fortress was forgotten buried under snow and debris, and no one even knew it existed. Until one day, the judge based in Chachapoyas Don Juan Crisostomo Nieto stumbled over the remains in a more casual way, exposing one of the largest puzzles in South America. And, nevertheless, this fortress of almost 600 meters long and 110 meters wide still harbors innumerable secrets, such as the “inkwell”, a building with uses that were not previously explained. But more about that later.
The fortress could accommodate more than 2000 inhabitants for their weddings, but until today it can not be clarified if the Chachapoyas always lived here, or if they retreated to the fortress of almost 3000 m in emergency like wars.
Kuelap is divided into three different levels, consisting of more than 300 individual houses. On the upper level, it is believed that the nobles or the upper members of the tribes lived. The average level was for the warriors and their families, and at the lowest level lived “the infantry”. This is evident from the various ornaments carved and painted on the walls of the houses.
There are three entrances to the fortress, but they are built in such a way that only one person at a time can enter through the narrow and high access. The exit was just across the street, convenient, as it allowed the direct shipment of unwanted intruders.
If you look at the walls, which go from the lower level to the upper one, at more than 20 meters high, it is hard to believe how this fortress managed to remain a secret. In general, more stones were used for construction than for the pyramids, in one of the most inhospitable and difficult to access places in the world.
Probably the biggest mystery of Kuelap is “El Tintero”, the inkwell. The building, which rejuvenated from top to bottom, could have served many purposes, but no one can say with certainty what it really is. A terrible torture chamber or an observatory to observe the sky; today this architectural curiosity must be supported with wooden poles and scaffolding, so as not to collapse.
If you want to travel from Chachapoyas to Kuélap today, it is much easier than five years ago. The parts of the route are paved and you can rent a taxi or minibus for little money (the stops are two blocks from the Plaza de Armas in the old town of Chachapoyas). However, the distance stops approximately one kilometer in front of the fortress, and the rest has to face on foot. And since the road is a little bumpy, you should – like everywhere in this area – wear solid and comfortable footwear.
Incidentally, after the Peruvian government has recognized the historical importance (and the tourism potential) of Chachapoyas and especially the Kuelap fortress, the construction of a cable car for the fort is being planned. However, when it will be completed exactly this is not yet known.
Foto: JianPing Yan
Just 20 km from Chachapoyas, in the middle of a nature reserve, is the waterfall of Gocta, which is one of the highest waterfalls in the world with a drop of 771 m. However, since waterfalls are often valued differently, you can not say exactly where you lie. Some say it is the third highest in the world, others say it is in a modest 14th place. What you can certainly say about the waterfall is that it can leave you breathless.
The waterfall was officially discovered only “recently”, namely, 2002 and that of a German. Stefan Ziemendorff, a development worker, saw the masses of water that fell during an expedition to the natural reserve, but only four years later, with Peruvian support, he was able to measure it again.
However, the descendants of the Chachapoyas would probably have liked it more if the Gocta waterfall had not been detected. There are still many gloomy legends around the waterfall today and you will not find it on any map made by the locals. It is said that the waterfall is highly dangerous and anyone who approaches it plays with his life. A legend, for example, tells of a mermaid who lives in the basin that protects the creatures in the river and carries each man with his song to a wet tomb. Of course, how much one wants to believe in legends depends on one’s own level of superstition, but one can not help noticing that there is a very special atmosphere here. The waterfall falls in two steps, and both deserve a visit, but only under guidance.
The waterfall was named after the village of Gocta, which is nearby. From Chachapoyas, you can arrive by taxi in less than half an hour in the nature reserve (in bad weather, of course it can take a little more time, depending on how far away the roads are from the rainfall). However, one should abstain during a visit to the Gocta waterfall to book a full visit in Chachapoyas. Instead, you can take a taxi to the town and register there (it costs 10 soles, approximately 3.5 US dollars). Here you will also find a local guide and the opportunity to stock up on supplies. Then you can not only enjoy the trip to the waterfall, but also you have the certainty that you have done something personally to improve the living conditions of the inhabitants. Community tourism is the name of the concept and helps support this region materially poor but historically rich at least a little.
It takes approximately two hours to climb one of the two steps of the waterfall. Climbing can be slippery, narrow or challenging in some places, a reason why you can only visit the waterfall on your own if you confirm in writing that you have been informed of the risks.
About 60 kilometers northeast of Chachapoyas is the small town of Karajia on a hilltop and about 300 meters below, in the middle of a steep rock face, are the six “wise men” in their majestic sarcophagi. How did you get there? Who were they? And why do the six stone people “look” to the east?
Also for the sarcophagi was for a long time: Who does not see me, does not know that I am there. And then the inhabitants knew about the 6 stone sarcophagi, but not the rest of the world. This changed in 1985, when the Peruvian archaeologist Federico Kauffmann discovered the six 2.5 meter high sarcophagi in one of his expeditions. The stone figures are side by side and look in the same direction: to the east, where the sun rises and many Andean peoples believe that life begins there, even after death.
According to scientific studies, the sarcophagi dated back to the year 1460. Originally, it is said that 8 figures resisted, but two earthquakes and extreme climatic conditions have been victims. In total, there are two more groups with sarcophagi on the steep wall, which come from another time and are a little less elaborate.
The sages were made of a mixture of clay, straw and boulders. The meanings of the red ornaments, which cover the white figures, could not be clarified until now if and what the geometric patterns mean. It is assumed that the “inhabitants” of the sarcophagi were tall and deserving members of the Chachapoyas. Since one of the sarcophagi has a jump, researchers might discover that the body was placed inside and wrapped in cloths. Inside, they have found some funerary objects, such as ceramics and gold.
The sarcophagi could survive for centuries relatively without damage or traces of footprints, and this is also evident in its location with hardly any access, without special equipment. It is believed that in the past a rocky ledge must have led to the niche on which the Chachapoyas could place the sarcophagi here. Then they should be cut after completing the work piece by piece, in order to destroy the access. The serious invaders had almost no chance, apart from the fact that no native dared to mess with the dead.
The sarcophagi are located near Luya and can be reached from Chachapoyas. Even if the distance is only 60 km, the trip on sometimes bumpy roads takes 2 to 3 hours. But not only will you be rewarded with the fascinating sages, but you will also have a breathtaking view of the entire valley, which is thrown at your feet. Especially on clear days, you can take unique photos of the unspoilt nature here.
And while you’re here, you should definitely plan a visit to the Quiocta Cave, an ancient ritual site of the Chachapoyas.
Almost round the corner of the Karajia sarcophagus is the Quiocta Cave, actually a vast system of widely branched caves that has been explored to a limited extent to this day. The cave is largely in its original state, which means one meter high stalactites and stalagmites, but also extremely wet clay soil.
Numerous signs, such as ceramics and bones, have been found in the entrance area of the cave, suggesting that the place was used for rituals.
But with the announcement of the cave, of course, came the grave robbers, mostly from abroad, and looted what they contained. Finally, the Peruvian government intervened and closed the entrance with a latticework.
Foto: Nils Wanner
Foto: Nils Wanner
Foto:ArtD3sign
If you want to visit the cave today, you have to book a licensed guide to the city, and while doing so, equip yourself with a lamp over your head, because the cave is barely illuminated and a bad step can end up very wet, even if you throw yourself away River. Boots are essential for a visit to the cave. The clay soil can soften extremely, so wet feet are guaranteed.
But there is a very special atmosphere in the cave: there is a skull half sunken in the clay, there is a stalagmite two meters high, you should definitely pack the camera with a good beam, because that is almost like an old Indiana Jones movie!
Chachapoyas has always had fluctuating and sometimes climatic problems. The heavy rains and the heavy snow alternated with periods of great drought under which agriculture, especially the cultivation of sugarcane, suffered.
It was in such a dry period that the second archbishop of Peru, Toribio de Mogrovejo, visited Chachapoyas. And here begins the legend: it is said that De Mogrovejo touched with his cane a rock a kilometer from the Plaza de Armas. And just then, the water gushed from the rock and saved the inhabitants of Chachapoya from drought.
Two centuries later, the wealthy residents of the city wanted to commemorate the “Miracle of Yanayacu” and built a stone sanctuary with a small canopy over the fountain, which can still be visited today.
And, as is often the case with such sources of mystical origin, the healing powers are, of course, also attributed to the water of the source of love. Not only should life expectancy increase, but also help with all kinds of physical ailments. And, as a little extra for the ladies, the water should have the power to “captivate” the beauty of the woman and preserve it forever.
Another legend says that you can not remove a stone from the well. Thus, in 1936, a school principal stole one of the stones, after which it was assumed that the well had completely dried overnight. Only when the villagers noticed his theft and discovered that the stone was well hidden in one of his classrooms was he taken to his original place under the eyes of the locals’ eagle.
And when the inhabitants of Chachapoya ran to the well at dawn, the water gushed forth in all its splendor.
The patron saint of Chachapoyas, the virgin Asunta, was formerly known as “Virgen de la Asunción”, “Virgen de la Asunción”. And here too, as is usually the case in Peruvian culture, history is mixed with legend.
Then, a rich Peruvian should have had a painting of the Virgin, but refused to leave this to the local clergy. But one night, it is said that he appeared to the Virgin in a dream and so he ran to the church the next morning and instructed him to build a new chapel in the hills of Luya Orco. The cleric, astonished, but convinced of a miracle, began construction immediately and it is said that he heard from the mountains the ringing of the bells throughout the construction period.
Today, the chapel of the Assunta Virgin belongs to a retirement home, but you can still visit, of course. The statue of the Virgin is extremely animated and there is a separate room in the adjoining room of the chapel for all its different costumes and its precious jewels. And the Virgin is better equipped than some fashionistas: more than 100 different costumes are attracted to the statue on certain occasions.
Every year from the 1st to the 15th of August, the feast of the Blessed Virgin is celebrated. And, of course, the statue gets its best clothes and the most precious and extraordinary jewels, and is carried through the streets with a solemn procession. Each church in Chachapoyas is visited, no matter how small a chapel is, and on the way the children throw colorful confetti, dance groups offer their folk dance shows and in general there is a very happy mood.
The churches themselves erect a special altar for the Asunta honors for them in the church, which is then blessed by a priest. By the way, the feast of the Assunta Virgin is celebrated in many parts of Peru. At Culco, it has been officially part of Peru’s cultural heritage since 2015.
La Casona Monsante
If you want to have a real idea of the colonial architecture of the original houses of Chachapoyas, then you should definitely visit the Casona Monsante, or even spend the night here, because today the house functions as a nice hostel.
Before, the tobacco dried in the spacious rooms, today the rooms are decorated with exquisite antiques and offer ample space to recover from a day in the mountains. The rooms have high ceilings and huge bathrooms with hot water 24 hours, you have (at least if you are close enough to the router) Wi-Fi relatively stable and breakfast of course you can also.
La Casona Monsante is located in a pedestrian area, a few minutes from the Plaza de Armas. And even if you have not booked before, it is usually possible to reserve a room spontaneously, the hostel is, except for the festivities of the city, which is rarely fully booked.
A special feature is the way in which orchids are bred here. In the picturesque courtyard you can enjoy colorful flowers and relax after a hard day.
Other attractions in the city
Plaza de Armas of Chachapoyas
Visiting hours: throughout the day
Location: Right in front of the Municipal Palace.
In the square there is a beautiful bronze fountain of colonial style, surrounded by colonial mansions with traditional balconies.
Plazuela de la Independencia
Visiting hours: around the clock
Location: Jr. Amazonas, 3rd block
It was built to commemorate Higos Urco, where Peruvian patriots led by Colonel José Matos fought for independence.
Cañon del Sonche
Visiting hours: during the day
Location: north of Chachapoyas (20 minutes by car).
The Sonche Canyon has a depth of approximately 800 meters and offers a wonderful view over the Sonche River.
Climate and temperatures
It is constantly warm all year round with a minimum temperature of 24 degrees per day. At night it cools remarkably.
Current weather
Getting there
Chachapoyas can only be reached by land. Alternatively from Lima by plane to Tarapoto and from there by car. continue.
Lima – Chiclayo – Chachapoyas: 1,409 km (22 hours by car)
Lima – Trujillo – Cajamarca – Chachapoyas: 1,716 km (28 hours by car)
Tarapoto – Moyobamba – Chachapoyas: 361 km (7 to 8 hours by car)
Chachapoyas
Related Links